Follow this link for an updated Registax wrapper and a completely new AutoStakkert wrapper with preinstalled ffmpeg!
Original post below.
Registax 18.104.22.168 is working for me in OSX Mavericks 10.9.1. This is achieved by downloading Wineskin Winery and using it to package Registax in a emulated environment. Everything appears to be functional with the exception that the drop down menu in the “Open file(s)” dialog is broken (files can still be opened). You can use the links above to package Registax so that will work in OSX, or you can download the prepackaged Registax I’ve linked below.
I made a nosepiece to mate my Canon 60Da to my Coronado Hα solar telescope. The lens and it’s mounting hardware were repurposed from a Meade #126 Barlow. With the nosepiece inserted into the Coronado, the first surface of the lens sits inside the barrel at a depth of 26.5mm. The nosepiece has a flange that spaces the Zhummel Canon EOS ring 2mm away from the end of the Coronado barrel. The nosepiece was machined from an existing 1.25″ t-ring nosepiece. The modifications were made to create the desired focal lengths between optical elements and to allow for the press fit of the Meade lens. The result creates a large image of the solar disk that fits on the sensor.
I pulled open my Sony DSC-N2 yesterday. I located and removed the IR filter which is opaque to infrared yet is transparent to visible light (greenish-blue piece of glass). I then replaced it with a piece of material that is transparent to infrared, but opaque to visible light (black square). This new filter I created using a window from an old television remote control which the William Temple House was kind enough to give me for free.
I went down to the Really Good Stuff vintage shop in Southeast Portland and picked up an old telephone handset. It took less than an hour to wire it up to work with my iPhone. The handset has a button built into the handle that now performs the same function as the button on the microphone on the standard iPhone headset. (answer, release, play, pause, voice commands, etc.) I was able to use the original microphone and speaker, so the sound quality is awesomely ’50s. Leaving the original microphone and speaker intact also preserves the handset’s pleasing balance and weight.
A bit more info for do-it-yourselfers.
You’ll want a 3.5mm 4 conductor cable. If your handset already has a cord that you wish to use, you might just get the plug end to finish your existing cable. Otherwise, get a finished cable and strip bare the necessary wire ends.
The correct 3.5mm plug will have 4 conductors separated by 3 black rings. Starting from the tip and moving toward the base, the conductors are 1, 2, 3, and 4.
Your speaker will have two terminals. Wire one terminal to pin 3 (ground), wire the other to both pins 1 and 2 (left and right signal). Your microphone will also have two terminals. Run the ground of the mic to pin 3, and run the signal for the mic to pin 4. If your handset has a button which you wish to use to mimic the functionality of the button integrated into the mic on the iPhone earbuds, wire that button so that it will momentarily connect pins 3 and 4.
This should be all the info you need to create your own handset. Every other detail will vary based on the particular handset that you wish to modify. A circuit tester will be useful to make sure you have the speakers and microphone wired to their correct conductors on the jack. Good luck.